Yana Kalaw

For one young Filipino designer, fashion becomes a space to confront the versions of ourselves we were once taught to hide.

Growing up as a queer girl in a conservative Catholic environment, the designer learned early on that identity could feel like something that needed to be performed. There was pressure to appear “straight,” while another kind of expectation demanded masculinity as proof of queerness. Between these conflicting ideas of conformity, femininity became something that had to be questioned, reclaimed, and ultimately embraced.

Every collection begins with a story. What personal experience, emotion, or cultural reference became the starting point for the collection you're presenting at Manila FashionWeek?

I think the starting point of this collection is just about me growing up as a queer girl living in this conservative Catholic world type of thing. Growing up, I've always felt like I had to pretend–that in order to appease the adults around me, I had to be “straight”. But on the other hand there was also this other struggle with another form of conformity, because I felt like I had to be more masculine to feel like I deserved to like a girl. With this collection, parang, it's just me embracing na I didn't have to be masculine, I didn't have to be “passing”, I didn't have to be one certain way to validate who I am. So with this collection, I just wanted to embrace my femininity, embrace who I actually am.

Your work contributes to the evolving narrative of Filipino fashion. How do you define your creative identity today, and how has it transformed since you first started designing?

My creative identity today is somehow raw and emotional. I’d like to think of myself as an emotional designer because I think I've made it my mission na yung emotions ko, I wanted it to be translated through my art. I wanted it to show in my pieces. And when I was starting, I guess nahirapan akong i-translate siya because I had this insecurity

before that I was a stylist first rather than a designer. I felt like whenever I style, nawawala yung pagka-designer ko. I thought they were two different things, but now, I realized that combining them made sense. The moment I allowed myself to be both made me feel free to create whatever I want.

Fashion is more than clothing—it's a reflection of culture, community, and individuality. What conversation or feeling do you hope your collection sparks once it leaves the runway?

I guess I want people to feel in awe. I want them to see how beautiful embracing your femininity can be since I really, really believe that Femininity has no gender. I feel like you don't have to be queer to get it– that femininity is something you feel, something that is just inside you that wants to come out, and I want people to celebrate that.

Can you share a moment from the creation process that challenged you or surprised you? Whether it was a material, silhouette, collaboration, or unexpected breakthrough, we’d love to hear the story behind it.

I think what challenged me in this collection is I had so many emotions that I wanted to share. There are four main emotions that I put about the collection–Grief, anger, defiance, and becoming. I was really challenging myself na maipakita ‘yun in just a short collection. Pero ayun I think it's just really about editing and making sure lang na I would

be able to show it through the manipulations and techniques I use.

Looking beyond this season, what do you hope your work contributes to the future of Philippines Fashion, and what legacy do you want your brand to leave for the next generation of creatives?

I hope as a contemporary designer that I'm able to create unique pieces that are less conservative, but are still welcomed. I think as a young designer, I feel like there's still so much for me to do to strengthen a legacy. But I guess for now, all I can say is that I just want to build that legacy on being body positive and embracing your hubadera-ness and that side of you.